March 3, 2006
If there is one thing to say about Mardi Gras, it is this: The Plan, your roadmap of festivities and schedule of Bacchanal—which is usually too much for any 18 hour period—inevitably gets tossed and you play everything by ear, taking the day and the magic as it comes.
In that respect, this Mardi Gras was no different. Everything that I had lightly mapped out was turned on its head. Early breakfast and jacuzzi on Spain Street was replaced by bloody marys and a biscuit across the street. I missed the Indians uptown because 6AM was nowhere near my map given the hour I crossed my pillow that morning; I began the day, dressed as Dorothy Parker/Sally Bowles, with neighbors.
And then it hit me. It rang and sang and heartened me from 1920s cloche to leather shoes: The Children Were Back. Naylor and Nicholas, Aureliano and Isabella, Jack and Tyler…I knew they were here. But as I left them, trekking toward St. Charles, more spilled out from a house on Euterpe. For a moment they replaced the pink house where Marcus, Leon, and Dexter lived. I stopped and talked with the only adult in sight.
“What happened to the girl who lived over there?”
“They sold the house, baby,” was the disappointed response.
We tried to fit some post-disaster pieces together then off we went, a group unknown to each other until now. As we reached the Avenue and the Zulu parade, there were even more children: on shoulders, in strollers, holding hands, stretching their arms for coconuts. There was the braided baby and the two flaming redheads. And then, between floats, two mothers cajoled their school aged sons into warm reunion. It had been six months since they last saw each other—and you could tell that all they wanted to do was embrace. But for age and a thousand people in their way, they would have.
After an unsuccessful attempt at procuring a coconut for bespectacled Tristan—I did manage a Zulu pendant—I hoofed down St. Charles, toward the Backstreet Cultural Museum. I hooked up with Aunt Louise and Uncle Jerry, parting ways at Poydras (“Be careful, baby!”), then I found a new cousin in Maya from Boston, late to work and a fast walker like me. I followed her as she excused and northeasted her way crossing Canal (“Come on, people!”), and when warmly we parted at Iberville, it was an excellent time for another bloody mary. My favorite poet at the Bombay Club supports a fierce bartending habit, and he sent me on my Tremé way, tomato concoction in hand.
I ran into more friends, briefly enjoying their circuit party (Part I, St. Louis Street), and when I reached Backstreet there were still more friends and acquaintances, more sunlight on St. Aug, more smiles. And off to the second line with Liberty, the Love Machine, and a man who is self-described as simply exquisite. We passed signs still admonishing THOU SHALL NOT KILL, while under it one woman barbequed and another twirled her umbrella. And then the second line…and more familiar faces. One face told me, “See? If you just come to the right places, we’ll see each other more often,” and another said, “My SIS-TAH!” That hug was nearly death by brooch for poor Dorothy Parker/Sally Bowles.
Loosely grouped at the curb, it happened again, like an Irish joke: More Children. They were everywhere. I made a new friend in Pam who entrusted me with the care of hers, including nieces and nephews, while she headed toward Claiborne for a turkey leg (The Love Machine had brought one back for communal consumption but Pam was determined to feed her own brood). Those children who weren’t embarrassed to be monitered I took by the hand and jockeyed for more Zulu pendants. Then back to the curb for sight seeing.
Still more: yellow-feathered Indian girls, red-feathered boys, standing patiently for pictures. Boys too cool for school or a secondline or a stranger looking after them—but they knew they had to be there. They knew that tradition trumped their middle school surliness. With sunglasses, baseball caps, and Hornets jerseys they gathered at the neutral ground, not standing in ancestral way.
The crowd dispersed, I parted with Liberty and Pam, and walked toward the Quarter, to Dauphine Street, where a new friend made on Friday had invited me for what would be the best jambalaya I’d ever had—a perfect blend of flavor and kick. And then the neighbors—some I’d left at breakfast, others I’d never joined for Marigny pancakes—called, “We’re down the street. Come have a drink!” And after a beverage on one of the gayest corners in the city, I left with Jim—a stranger until just last week.
We returned to the Dauphine Street hotspot, made introductions, sat long enough to watch two Korean War veterans get their picture taken by a man with a real 19th century hooded camera and for a big chief to arrive with face paint to spare, and finally did make it down to Frenchmen.
And there we stayed. With more friends. Ducking into Snug for respite both refreshing and biological, talking in the middle of the revelry with a neighbor documentarian—a humanitarian—who must have celluloid friendly angels, I say, watching over him. He will present the real deal, he will have New Orleans gold by the end of the year.
As the spectacular girl in blue feathers and triple wide tarp (my friend Jennifer) waltzed off toward Chartres with a man she’d met at the grocery, I decided to end the day on a high note. “Always end on a high note,” I said to Jim, my new partner in Mardi Gras. “Always leave wanting more…and knowing when you have a plane to catch.”
Crossing Chartres I ran into Steve the trombonist, videotaping while he walked, and we posed like a couple of early 20th century cast offs from the Lyric Theatre for Cheryl and Matt the Photographers; then the impossibly handsome and talented pianist “Lightin’” walked by and embrace we did—when will we see each other again?—and passing by in twos and threes, McNulty the Foodie and Marcie My Fellow Mississippi Evacuee, the guy from Donna’s…they were all—almost—there.
With feet screaming, Jim and I headed toward Canal, toward a taxi. The Bombay poet supplied us one more drink and we crossed right through red carpet rolled out in front of a large hotel on the American side of Canal Street. Jim greeted a man coming our way who turned back and said, “Hey, what’s up, brother!” It was C. Ray, the mayor—no doubt headed for the red where our feet had warmed it.
It was 10:00 PM and there were no more children. Hopefully, they were sleeping with Zulu pendants all snug in their beds. In truth, many were headed back the next day or days to Houston, to Dallas, to points west, north, east. Many could not attend at all but the Times-Picayune ran stories on diasporidic Mardi Gras the states over. Others would never attend. What the Times-Picayune did not run was a letter sent by the Bombay Poet, with an idea suggesting that all of those parading on Mardi Gras, native, local, and tourist, bow their heads for one minute as the hour strikes 10:oo AM, to mourn those lost. Paper sanction or no, perhaps next year we can have that one quiet, masqued minute.
As for this year, the heat was remarkable for February. The Mardi Gras, remarkable therapy.